Russia 2, il ritorno in Europa PDF Print E-mail
Written by Pietro   
Monday, 19 July 2010 13:30

Riprendo la storia che ci porta ad attraversare una Siberia infinita. Eravamo rimasti a Kemerovo quando conosco Seppo e il suo gesso che copre interamente il piede e prosegue fino a sotto il ginocchio...nessuna voglia di smettere di guidare...Huub cammina quasi bene, meglio con le scarpe che con gli stivali. Seppo ha una frattura scomposta del perone, più o meno nello stesso punto in cui anche Huub ha la frattura ma l'osso di Seppo è davvero spezzato. Si sono fermati qualche giorno fa dopo aver guidato per 2000 km da Ulaan Baatar fino a Kemerovo, perchè il dolore aumentava. Nell'ospedale di Kemerovo hanno mosso la frattura cercando di mettere in asse i due pezzi del perone e poi l'hanno ingessato, infatti fino a quel punto Seppo si era rifiutato di farsi ingessare. Ci fermiamo 2 giorni per lavare via tutta la polvere che ho accumulato nell'ultima settimana in Mongolia e per dare un po' di riposo alla gamba. Decidiamo di riportare a casa Seppo, detto anche Sleppo perché la mattina è l'ultimo ad alzarsi, e di guidare fino in Finlandia, un'altra deviazione che aggiunge forse 1000 km, ma siamo carichi per provare la vera sauna finlandese. Dopo due giorni Huub riduce il gesso togliendo tutta la parte del piede in modo che Seppo possa guidare, mentre io gli faccio l'eparina per evitare una possibile trombosi.

 

Seppo è un'uomo finlandese di 48 anni, non lo diresti mai ma ha 48 anni, vive ad Helsinki, ha perso il lavoro a causa della crisi economica e ha deciso di partire per 3 mesi con altri due finlandesi, con destinazione Pamir in Tagikistan credo, passando per Mongolia, Kazakistan, Kirgizistan e Uzbekistan. Guida una BMW 1200 GS, come dice Huub British Motorcycle Works, e ad Ulaangom in Mongolia è caduto rompendosi il perone della gamba destra. Brutta frattura. Ha guidato fino ad Ulaan Baatar stringendo i denti e qui ha incontrato Huub dove hanno deciso di muoversi assieme formando così il Limping Team, o O-limping team. Questo è Seppo

 E questo è il suo osso fratturato!!

Sono passati due giorni da quando sono rientrato in Russia e in teoria ho 72 ore per registrare la mia presenza in Russia, dovrebbe funzionare così: appena si entra in Russia entro 72 ci si deve registrare e se si rimane per più di 3 giorni lavorativi nello stesso stato russo allora ci si deve registrare nuovamente e così vale per tutto il periodo della permanenza in Russia. Di solito gli alberghi forniscono il servizio di registrazione per gli ospiti, ma non le gasinitza e nemmeno l'albergo in cui ci troviamo noi a Kemerovo perchè è registrato come centro sportivo. Perdo 3 ore insieme a Sasha (quello con il cappellino jamaicano nella foto), un ragazzo che penso lavori nel centro sportivo, ma non ne sono sicuro, per cercare di registrarmi ma nessun albergo mi vuole registrare, non capisco il perché. Vado all'ufficio del comune con Sasha, mi mandano in un altro ufficio che però è chiuso, quindi rinuncio. Ce ne andiamo da Kemerovo e decidiamo di fermarci a Novosibirsk, a 250 km da Kemerovo in modo che Seppo prenda confidenza col gesso alla guida.

A Novosibirsk ci aspettano Katia e Sasha, due amici che Seppo ha conosciuto all'andata, sulla via che l'ha portato in Mongolia. Katia e Sasha sono due ragazzi giovani, sui 26 anni, entrambi con un matrimonio fallito alle spalle, vivono assieme e si vede che stanno bene assieme. I loro amici sono motociclisti, ci danno un gran benvenuto e poi ci prendono come passeggeri sulle loro moto per portarci a festeggiare in un bar. Naturalmente senza casco, qualcuno anche senza targa, facciamo 1 km da passeggeri e per me è più dura che farne 100 sulla mia moto. Sono tutti molto gentili con noi, e mente beviamo birra e vodka arriva un loro amico medico che taglia via il gesso di Seppo, gli fa un massaggio e gli dice che la gamba deve essere libera. Torniamo a casa di Sasha e Katia dove grazie alla vodka scatta una jam session con fisarmonica russa e flauto traverso, musica russa. Il giorno seguente cerco di registrarmi fuori tempo a Novosibirsk, andiamo all'ufficio immigrazione, ma l'ufficiale non mi vuole registrare perché il mio visto risponde ad un invito personale che proviene da Kirow...un sacco si storie...l'atmosfera si altera un po' soprattutto quando Huub suggerisce all'ufficiale di darmi un foglio su carta intestata in cui lui spiega che si rifiuta di registrarmi e il motivo per cui non mi vuole registrare...chiaramente firmato...in 10 secondi ci vuole sbattere fuori!! Non mi muovo, ottengo un foglio che è una versione morbida di quello che Huub ha suggerito. Concludiamo la conversazione dicendogli che è lui e il suo ufficio sono inutili! Vado nell'albergo centrale a Novosibirsk e per 20 Euro mi registrano in 10 minuti. Seconda tappa in ospedale per lastra alla gamba di Seppo e gesso nuovo, comunque ridotto in modo da poter guidare. Passiamo 2 giorni davvero piacevoli in compagnia di Katia e Sasha e prima di ripartire Sasha cerca anche di insegnarmi i canti di gola tipici della Mongolia e della Repubblica di Altai...non ce la posso fare!!

 

Ripartiamo da Novosibirsk, in direzione Kirow dove il nostro contatto Vladimir Kishlukin dell'IPA, international police association, ci aspetta. Attraversiamo tutta la Siberia Occidentale, passando Omsk, Thiumen ed Ekaterinburg. Aveva ragione Sergio Fini, un sacco di zanzare, mosche e mosconi. Passiamo le nottate in gastinitze sulla strada frequentate da camionisti e puttane, capita anche di avere la sauna in una di queste e ne approfittiamo. Le zanzare ci uccidono, un esempio: una sera esco per una pipì nel campo, colleziono 16 becchi in 20 secondi, interrompo la pipì e corro dentro...Nelle nostre sistemazioni l'unico metodo utilizzato per catturare mosche e zanzare è costituito da una specie di scotch appeso al soffitto a cui rimangono impigliate le mosche e le zanzare. Ecco una foto + foto delle gambe di Huub.

 

Arriviamo ad Ekaterinburg dopo qualche giorno, qui l'Asia (la Siberia) finisce e ricomincia l'Europa...sinceramente non lo sapevo che una parte così grande di Russia con città come Perm e Kirow facessero parete dell'Europa...ma c'è anche un cartello che indica la linea di divisione..ci fermiamo per qualche foto...non so quale scegliere quindi ne metto più di una!!

 

La catena della mia moto a questo punto è alla frutta, si sta allungando talmente tanto che rischio che salti sulla corona, devo aggiustarla tutti i giorni e se la tiro peggioro la situazione perchè si allunga ancora di più...ho fatto quasi 20000 km con questa catena su sabbia pietra e fango, devo cambiarla. Quando arriviamo ad Ekaterinburg vedo un'insegna Honda così decido di seguirla, i ragazzi mi vengono dietro. Chiaramente è la la concessionaria Honda auto, ma chiedo comunque. Spieghiamo la situazione, il viaggio che stiamo facendo e che ho bisogno di una catena nuova....risposta: siamo invitati per un pranzo di lavoro nel ristorante della concessionaria che è anche la più grande concessionaria Honda di tutta la Russia. Mentre Seppo e Huub mangiano io vado con il loro meccanico in città a cercare pignone e catena nuova. Lui guida come un pazzo, lascio le mie unghie sul rivestimento interno della sua macchina!! Troviamo entrambi i pezzi, catena RK, pignone non originale ma mi accontento, lo cambierò quando torno a casa.

 

Oltre alle auto nel garage Honda c'è anche un quad (si scrive così?), quelle moto con 4 ruote....e il meccanico, oltre ad essere un pazzo con la macchina, lo è ancora di più con il quad e ci mostra quello di cui è capace. Lo proviamo anche io e Huub.....ciao....troppo potente!!

Prima di arrivare a Kirow ci fermiamo ad AFASINIOVA (GPS 58.86313 E 53.24467), è tardi e siamo stanchi. Troviamo una gastinitza senza garage, così chiediamo ai vicini e uno si offre di liberare il suo garage per noi. Come al solito la gente nei villaggi è molto più gentile che nelle città e ci accoglie a braccia aperte. Nel giro di mezz'ora iniziamo il tour dei bar del paese, 2 bar...., beviamo insieme ai locals che ordinano il cibo per noi e ci offrono il bere. Cerchiamo di offrire da bere e Valentino che quasi si arrabbia, ma alla fine ci riesco, in fondo la mia parte siciliana/calabrese riesce sempre ad imporsi in qualche modo, anche sui russi!! Finisco per ballare insieme a Huub e ad una signora georgiana super ciccia in uno dei due bar. La mattina seguente mi sveglio di botto quando vedo la porta della nostra camera aprirsi e vedo un tizio entrare. Huub non c'è, Seppo russa,, lo chiamo mentre questo si avvicina al mio letto. Lo riconosco, è uno dei ragazzi del bar, quello con la moto, che è venuto a dirmi che vuole venire con noi a Kirow in moto. Gli stringo la mano, gli dico ok e faccio per stendermi di nuovo, ma gli devo dare un'orario, non so dove sia Huub quindi mi devo alzare per trovare Huub e organizzare la cosa; prendo il mio casco e salgo su con lui in moto che non mi sono ancora lavato la faccia. Di Huub nessuna traccia così gli do appuntamento per le 11 davanti alla nostra gastinitza. Faccio colazione e incontro qualcuno dei ragazzi della sera prima che ancora sta bevendo birra alle 9 di mattina!! Huub torna, è stato dal barbiere!! La notizia di noi si sparge e mentre mangiamo qualcosa al bar prima di partire, vengono due ragazzi a chiedere di intervistarci per la gazzetta locale e ci fanno anche qualche foto.

Alle 11.30 il nostro nuovo amico motociclista non c'è così partiamo in direzione Kirow. Arriviamo nel tardo pomeriggio, la prendiamo comoda. Ad aspettarci Vladimir, Viktor e Sofia che traduce. Vladimir è stato il contatto di Huub per ottenere il visto russo. Ci serviva un invito per ottenere il visto russo e attraverso l'IPA Huub si è messo in contatto con Vladimir, anche lui membro dell'IPA in Russia. Vladimir ci ha inviato un invito privato in Marzo e così abbiamo ottenuto il visto doppia entrata per la Russia. Incontriamo a Kirow il ragazzi che ci ha svegliato la mattina...dice che siamo partiti alle 10,30 senza aspettarlo...non capisco....poi realizzo che è cambiato l'orario e che quindi siamo un'ora indietro rispetto a due giorni prima e praticamente l'abbiamo bidonato senza rendercene conto...mi dispiace ma non riesco a spiegarglielo in russo; sembra comunque che non se la sia presa troppo. Spero che trovi la spiegazione qui sul blog.

Viktor si offre di ospitarci nella sua dacia, casa in campagna, dove in estate vive con sua moglie. La casa è stupenda, la stanno ancora finendo di mettere a posto, ma è già strabella, con “bagna” russa annessa e orto pieno di verdura, frutta e frutti di bosco come fragoline, mirtilli, lamponi, fragole...si sta da dio, unico inconveniente una marea di zanzare!! Siamo anche vicini al fiume che attraversa la città di Kirow, che si chiama Viadka, che sfocia nel fiume Kama che sfocia nel Volga che sfocia nel mar Caspio. Viktor, ex-poliziotto, possiede la concessionaria Opel e Chevrolet. Ha un ottimo garage con ottima attrezzatura tedesca. Lasciamo le nostre moto lì per i 3 giorni che passiamo a Kirow. Il secondo giorno abbiamo un'intervista fissata per la rivista dell'IPA che pubblicherà un secondo articolo su di noi. Così la mattina siamo nel caffè della concessionaria Opel con giornalista, traduttrice, Paul Cross, un inglese giramondo che adesso vive a Kirow, Viktor, il capo dell'IPA locale più accompagnatrici.

Raccontiamo del nostro viagggio e nel pomeriggio Viktor ci fa da Cicerone per la città di Kirow con Veronica. Viktor e sua moglie ci offrono un'ospitalità sincera, vera, persone felici e semplici nonostante la posizione che ricoprono nella società.

Il giorno dopo visitiamo la sede dell'IPA, dove scattiamo qualche foto storica di Huub con la divisa della polizia plurimedagliata del capo.

 

 

Come se non bastasse anche la tv locale è chiamata alla concessionaria di Viktor dove veniamo filmati mentre guidiamo le nostre moto e mentre diamo le nostre impressioni sulla Russia. Veronica si emoziona così viene Jana a tradurre per noi. Sottolineiamo durante l'intervista quanto sono pazzi i russi alla guida e le differenze tra villaggi e città. Proviamo qualche battuta ma l'umorismo non prende il volo...amen!!

Il resto del pomeriggio Vladimir ci mostra l'università dove lui insegna e la scuola dell'IPA.

Il giorno seguente decidiamo di ripartire quindi andiamo a riprendere le nostre moto in città alla concessionaria di Viktor che ormai è diventata la nostra casa base. Come siamo pronti per partire le impiegate di Viktor scendono in strada per fare qualche foto con noi e le moto. Ecco qualche esempio.

Continuiamo in direzione Finlandia, attraversiamo ancora boschi e finalmente raggiungiamo e attraversiamo il mitico Volga. Ci fermiamo in un paio di gastinitza lunga la via e passiamo la penultima notte russa vicino a Ribyinsk doce ci prendiamo una sbronza colossale davanti ad un lago per finire i rubli.

 

 

Arriviamo in Finlandia in due giorni...molte differenze, quelle differenze che ti fanno capire che sei tornato davvero in Europa e soprattutto che sei in un paese ricco: in strada non c'è nessuno, l'asfalto è perfetto, nessuno cerca di ucciderti correndoti addosso, ci sono un casino di cartelli stradali. Questa storia dei cartelli stradali è pazzesca, sembra che ne mettano tanti apposta per farti sentire in colpa se non li leggi tutti!! Il primo dice Helsinki 187 km e dopo 2 km Helsinki 185 e dopo 1 km ancora Helsinki 184...ho capito !!! In Russia c'era un po' più di fantasia e si andava un po' più a risparmio....esempio Irkutsk 1900 e per 50 km niente, poi Irkutsk 1970 km e allora pensi che hai sbagliato strada ma perseveri e dopo 50 km Irkutsk 1700 km...insomma prima o poi arrivi senza troppi stress di quanti km mancano alla meta.

Ad Helsinki ad aspettarci c'è Sirka, la moglie di Seppo, Sinna e Mirka le figlie. Facciamo una sauna spettacolare, cena e letto come dei bimbi tramortiti. Ormai il gesso di Seppo se n'è andato da un pezzo, piegato, umido e stanco di stare alla gamba di un pazzo motociclista finlandese quindi la prima tappa è l'ospedale che si presenta in Finlandia più come un ufficio che come un ospedale...non mi fa una buona impressione. Un medico di base lo vede e gli fa fare una lastra. Dice che la frattura si sta saldando bene e che non c'è bisogno di operarla. Seppo è super contento e pensa di continuare il viaggio verso l'Olanda e forse l'Italia, staremo a vedere, intanto aspettiamo mercoledì per la visita con l'ortopedico. Si fa visitare anche Huub, anche per lui lastra della gamba e anche per lui esito positivo! Insomma notizie positive.

Passiamo i giorni seguenti nella casa estiva di Seppo al lago dove Sirka cucina pranzi e cene splendide, beviamo vino e birra e nuotiamo nudi nel loro lago. La loro casa è spendida e il tramonto sul lago è spettacolare.

 

Questo è il lago a mezzanotte.

Prima di ripartire facciamo qualche lavoro sulle moto. La mia moto sembra un po' affogare, il filtro dell'aria potrebbe essere la ragione quindi decido di cambiarlo e di controllare anche le candele. Decisamente il filtro è sporco...Huub dice che è il più sporco che abbia mai visto...bene!!

Cambio anche filtro dell'olio, olio motore e pastiglie del freno posteriore ormai inesistenti.

Mercoledì ripartiamo, porto anche lo zio Huub in Olanda e poi si torna a casa dopo 3 mesi. L'emozione continua.

 

Alla prossima

Last Updated on Monday, 19 July 2010 18:03
 

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