Siberia 1 – Da Barnaul al Lago Baikal PDF Print E-mail
Written by Pietro   
Sunday, 13 June 2010 12:15

Ciao a tutti, cambio di programma, decidiamo di attraversare prima la Siberia orientale fino al lago Baikal e poi entrare in Mongolia con un paio di settimane di ritardo rispetto al previsto, questo forse ci permette di avere temperature alte, adesso c'è ancora parecchio freddo...non che tra 2 settimane ci sarà un caldo pazzesco però...

 

Il secondo giorno russo ci porta a Barnaul per cambiare le gomme (Heidenau K60) che arrivano dalla Germania ad un prezzo più basso rispetto alle gomme cinesi che troviamo qui in Russia. Le gomme verranno mandate a Barnaul ad un certo Andriyu di cui abbiamo solo il numero di telefono. Lo chiamiamo non appena arriviamo in città e lui in un quarto d'ora ci viene a prendere e ci porta nel suo garage che è semplicemente un garage in cui lui mette a posto principalmente scooter, ma anche moto.

 

L'impressione iniziale è che dovremo fare il cambio delle gomme a mano che è un lavoraccio duro e richiede un sacco di tempo. E' quasi sera, le gomme non sono ancora arrivate quindi lasciamo le moto nel garage, prendiamo l'indispensabile e saliamo in macchina con Andriyu che ci porta a casa sua dove conosciamo sua moglie Natascia. Sono due ragazzi giovani, 35 anni, lui lavora, si intende un po' di tutto, conosce ogni modello di macchina e moto e mette a posto qualsiasi cosa. Ha sempre lavorato nel suo garage, lavora anche come taxista notturno e per un periodo ha fatto da autista alle macchine giapponesi di seconda mano che vengono sdoganate a Vladivostok...qua quasi tutti hanno una macchina giapponese (con la guida a destra), infatti sembra che in Giappone si cambi auto anche troppo spesso e le ancora ottime auto vengono poi portate in Russia a Vladivostok con un traghetto dove vengono raccolte e guidate verso diverse destinazioni in Russia. Ceniamo assieme e scopriamo che questo tipo qui, Andriyu, è veramente un pazzo da legare infatti qualche mese fa durante l'inverno siberiano (cioè -40/-50 °C) è partito con il suo scooter, e un sidecar che si è costruito lui, ed ha attraversato la Siberia...è andato ad un moto raduno a Togliatti (la città prende nome dall'italiano Togliatti, lì c'è la fabbrica della Fiat, e quindi anche Lada, costruita con soldi italiani, dove venivano costruite le zigulì, infatti proprio lì davanti ci sono le montagne zigulì) e ha anche vinto il premio per il tragitto più lungo...te credo...se guardate qui (http://www.ruriders.com/statya.php?id=15610) trovate un articolo che lo riguarda (in russo...). Insomma il personaggio ci piace, è sveglio, sembra affidabile e appassionato di moto. Ci trova anche un buon posto per dormire. Passiamo 4 giorni a Barnaul, le gomme arrivano in ritardo, così ne approfittiamo per cambiare l'olio al motore, il filtro dell'olio, dare un'occhiata al mio freno posteriore che tocca il disco, cambiare il pignone della moto di Huub, riposare, fare il bucato, aggiornare il blog, parlare via skype e girare un po' per la città.

La sera prima di ripartire ceniamo di nuovo assieme ed Andriyu decide di fare un centinaio di km con noi il giorno dopo col la sua moto custom arancione. Davvero un ottimo incontro!!


Guidiamo attraverso la Siberia orientale per giorni, le strade sono generalmente buone ma intervallate da sterrati in cui ci riempiamo di polvere (vedi video). La siberia si presenta come un'immensa distesa di boschi e laghi, boschi e laghi, boschi e laghi, boschi e laghi, boschi e laghi in cui si trovano lupi e orsi. Avvistiamo solo un lupo dalla strada che stranamente gira da solo. Nei bar e nelle gastinitza lungo il percorso vengono sfoggiati orsi imbalsamati.

Ogni sera cerchiamo un garage per le moto, ci succede di parcheggiare anche nel minimarket in costruzione a lato del motel.

Arriviamo a Irkutsk vicino al lago Baikal dopo 4 giorni e ci piazziamo per due giorni in un ostello in città in modo da poter visitare il lago e scambiare qualche parole con i tanti viaggiatori che si muovono sulla ferrovia transiberiana. Conosciamo finlandesi, spagnoli, francesi, belgi e neozelandesi, tutti ragazzi giovani in giro da 1-2-3 mesi. Molti volano a Pechino e da lì attraversano la Mongolia in direzione lago Baikal per poi tornare in Europa attraverso la transiberiana. Andiamo in giornata al lago e veramente vale la pena vedere questo profondissimo lago che raccoglie l'80% dell'acqua dolce in Russia. Mangiamo pesce secco e pesce alla griglia sulla strada e Huub fa fare u giro sulla sua moto a due ragazze che lavorano in un piccolo caffè dove ci fermiamo a riscaldarci un po'. C'è vento e fresco abbastanza per coprirsi bene, soprattutto se si va in moto.

La sera Huub si scatena con la sua macchina fotografica, dice che vuol portare a casa tanti volti e così si avvicina a gruppi di ragazzi e ragazze per scattare foto e primi piani..vedo che gli riesce bene così documento il momento e poi mi lancio anch'io alla ricerca di volti tipici.


Costeggiamo il lago tutto il giorno seguente in direzione Ulan-Ude, il nostro punto più a est (GPS N 51.3636 E 107.4983) (+7 ore rispetto all'Italia e più di un quarto di pianeta, 90°, in direzione est) fermandoci a dormire in una piccola casetta di pescatori lungo il lago. Un bellissimo tramonto è il regalo più bello.


Raggiungiamo Ulan Ude il giorno dopo (VIDEO) e consumiamo il pasto più ad est della nostra vita. Incontriamo diversi motociclisti da qui in poi che vengono dalla Mongolia, sono tutti molto felici della loro esperienza ma dicono tutti che sia piuttosto dura guidare per le “strade” mongole. Ci fermiamo nell'ultimo paesino prima del confine mongolo dove assistiamo anche ad una parata per il 28esimo anniversario di qualcosa che non capiamo e che si svolge chiaramente nella Lenina Ulitsa, cioè via Lenina che è sempre la via centrale di tutte le città russe, almeno per quello che abbiamo potuto constatare noi.

Impieghiamo circa 3 ore ad attraversare il confine, incontriamo altri motociclisti con o senza macchine di supporto, tutti contenti ma provati. Uno degli ufficiali della dogana ha anche una moto che ci fa provare...Huub dice che non l'ha mai vista una moto così....


La Mongolia si apre davanti ai nostri occhi, vasta, ampia, con colline o montagne ricoperte da un tappeto di erba perfetta. Oltrepassato il confine il paesaggio cambia velocemente, i visi cambiano ancora e la prima impressione è grandiosa. Passando da una valle all'altre mi si apre un buco dentro, una forte emozione che mi dà i brividi.

Ci fermiamo per mangiare qualcosa, sono le 5, anzi le 4 di pomeriggio perchè torniamo indietro di un'ora, e ancora non abbiamo toccato niente, così prendiamo una zuppa piccante e il tè mongolo che sembra essere latte caldo di capra con olio e sale...

Qui conosciamo una coppia di scozzesi che gira in bici da un mese e mezzo con i due figli di 4 e 5 anni, sono a metà del loro viaggio che li riporterà a casa. Ci danno anche indicazioni per un ottimo posto dove dormire ad Ulaan Baatar e siccome è ancora abbastanza presto e la strada è buona decidiamo di andare. Arriviamo ad Ulan Baatar che il sole è appena tramontato. Ad accoglierci 3 motociclisti tedeschi, un signore olandese sui 70 che ha venduto la sua company e adesso è da 2 anni e mezzo che gira (sta scrivendo una guida sulla Mongolia) e si muove con un furgone che sembra poter andare ovunque e un altro ragazzo tedesco che ha mollato il suo lavoro manageriale in Germania quasi 2 anni fa, si è trasferito in Mongolia dove si è costruito una casa sul lago e lavora per 60 euro al mese, il resto ce li mette lui. Di gente stufa del nostro mondo super organizzato sembra essercene parecchia, questo fa pensare. Mi trasmette un sacco il signore sui 70, sembra Terzani, si muove e parla con una calma e una tranquillità che non solo non mi appartengono ma che mi sembrano inarrivabili. Mi dice che ha lavorato fin da quando era giovane come corrispondente per diversi giornali olandesi e ha sempre vissuto in giro per il mondo, questo il suo sito di viaggio http://www.rondjemongolie.nl/ .

Ma la storia della Mongolia ve racconterò fra qualche settimana.

Alla prossima.

 

Last Updated on Monday, 14 June 2010 01:41
 

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