Dal Mar Nero al Mar Caspio – paesaggi invasioni petrolio natura e corruzione PDF Print E-mail
Written by Pietro   
Saturday, 22 May 2010 14:45

Abbiamo sviluppato una certa organizzazione oramai, la mattina prima di partire ingrassiamo la catena e ci sorpassiamo un paio di volte a vicenda in modo da controllare che sia tutto a posto sulle moto e che la catena non sia troppo molle o tirata.

Sono ormai passati diversi giorni da quando abbiamo attraversato il confine che divide la Turchia dalla Georgia. 3 ore per uscire dalla Turchia a causa di una scolaresca in gita che occupava il personale già lento di per sé...15 minuti per entrare in Georgia compresa la foto di identificazione in stile Stati Uniti!!

Abbandoniamo i minareti turchi e un paesaggio verdissimo ci accoglie, si ricominciano a vedere delle donne in strada a differenza dell'85% di rappresentanza maschile che si faceva notare in Turchia. La collina è dolce e la strada è ottima a parte alcune interruzioni improvvise..a turbare la quiete solo la guida folle dei georgiani che cercano sempre di superare nonostante traffico e curve. Ci fermiamo prima di Tbilisi, a Mskheta (GPS N41.84326 E44.72009), dove un georgiano vissuto in Francia ci presenta suo cugino Givi che ci affitta una camera per 8 euro ma senza lenzuola quindi provo il mio sacco a pelo nuovo...da dio!!

 

Passiamo la serata al bar che serve birra con gli ubriaconi di turno che brindano insieme a noi senza capirci..ci capiamo solo quando viene fuori la parola Russia..l'invasione dei territori del nord-ovest e del centro-nord (che noi abbiamo evitato) si fa sentire da queste parti...c'è tra queste persone chi ha perso i propri cari in quella guerra che ancora non finisce. Il giorno dopo ci dirigiamo verso l'Azerbaijan, ma ci mettiamo parecchio a trovare il confine, ci perdiamo a Tbilisi e non ne veniamo fuori per un po'..troviamo il confine solo alle 2 di pomeriggio e ne usciamo alle 6 dopo aver pagato 50$ ad un ufficiale. In teoria avremmo 5 giorni per il transito ma ci dicono che in 3 giorni le moto devono essere fuori dall'Azerbaijan pena una super multa e un gran casino..quindi ci dobbiamo muovere!! Cambiamo il fuso orario, ora siamo a +3 rispetto all'Italia, facciamo una sessantina di km e siccome sta scendendo il sole ci fermiamo a Qazakh a dormire in un motel di fianco al benzinaio con la auto-promessa di svegliarci presto ed arrivare a Baku in serata per prendere informazioni sulla nave che ci dovrebbe portare a Aqtau. Ce la facciamo nonostante la polizia ci fermi diverse volte cercando di farci multe inverosimili, ma Huub mostra sempre la sua tessera da (ex-)poliziotto dicendo che è un collega..ok ok no problem...e ci lasciano andare...bene così, abbiamo una valida assicurazione contro le multe !!! Attraversiamo tutto il paese nella sua parte pianeggiante in direzione Mar Caspio e sulla strada molta gente soprattutto ragazzini ci fanno foto e video..ahahah figo!! La strada è in generale ottima a parte alcuni pezzi (in tutto credo una 50 di km) in cui ci sono lavori in corso e ci si muove su di una carraia. Io vado meglio di Huub con la mia transalp, mi alzo in piedi e fa quasi tutto lei, tranne sul bagnato dove si scivola alla grande. La W650 di Huub fatica un po' se questo terreno ma viene avanti senza grossi problemi, anche se l'ammortizzatore destro trasuda un po' di olio...lui dice che non è un gran problema quindi...Lungo la strada si vedono un sacco di case in costruzione, la maggior parte delle volte i lavori cominciano dal muro di recinzione poi si passa alla costruzione della casa all'interno. Se i lavori sono lenti non è difficile capire con chi prendersela...i coordinatori dei lavori si dedicano al gioco invece che alla casa...

Arriviamo al porto di Baku in serata (N40.37205 E049.86537 ) e ci dicono che la nave sta partendo...sappiamo che c'è una nave a settimana/10 giorni quindi portiamo le moto in dogana e ci prepariamo per partire con un po' di amaro in bocca per non aver visto granché di Baku e dell'Azerbaijan. Così andiamo a fare i biglietti ma ci dicono che non c'è nessun traghetto che sta partendo per Aqtau quindi torniamo alla dogana e loro ci ripetono che il traghetto c'è..quindi??...quindi rimbalziamo un po' da un ufficio all'altro ma alla fine non c'è nessun traghetto. E' ormai tardi e non abbiamo nessun mezzo per muoverci perché le moto devono rimanere in dogana, non c'è modo di riprendersele, quindi riorganizziamo i bagagli, ci portiamo via un cambio e a piedi usciamo dal porto.

 

Cerchiamo da dormire, troviamo abbastanza nelle vicinanze un hotel che ci costa abbastanza e iniziamo a capire che Baku non è esattamente una città a buon mercato. Un sacco di macchine costosissime girano per le strade e grandi grattacieli sono in costruzione. Impareremo poi che da pochi anni è stato trovato molto petrolio nelle acque dell'Azerbaijan, che la popolazione di Baku è raddoppiata negli ultimi 5 anni e che il mercato è molto fiorente. Ci sono negozi di Bulgari e Cartier ecc ecc ma appena si esce dalla città i carretti sono ancora trainati da asini e il terreno si zappa a mano. Le zigulì e le Porsche si alternano ai semafori...sembra di essere in una nuova Dubai..almeno per come mi immagino io Dubai !! Cerchiamo di parlare con i nostri contatti azerbaijani, in particolare con Ilkin, il contatto che mi ha passato la Gio. Ilkin si mostra super gentile e promette di chiamarmi quando arriva la nave in modo che non la perdiamo. Girovaghiamo chiacchierando tutto il secondo giorno. La città mi sembra di plastica anche se alcuni palazzi come quello del governo sono molto belli. Le persone mi ricordano una canzone di Jovanotti quando dice pelle di ebano e occhi smeraldo come il diamante. Dormiamo in un ostello e facciamo conoscenza con un ragazzo svizzero (che mi ricorda troppo Nicolas il mio amico svizzero/olandese) che ha lasciato la banca svizzera per cui lavorava a 27 anni, si è iscritto all'università e ha deciso di fare un giro di 4 mesi per tutti gli stati che finiscono con stan a parte l'Azerbaijan ovviamente..il giorno dopo andiamo insieme a lui al porto, lui si imbarca per il Turkmenistan e noi riceviamo come ogni giorno la stessa risposta dalla biglietteria: niet prom = niente nave...quando arriva? Boooooooo tomorrow, dicono sempre tomorrow...Huub si rompe le palle e decide che ci riprendiamo le moto per provare a passare il confine che dall'Azerbaijan porta alla Russia. Io gli dico che non si può, l'ho letto sulla Lonely Planet, ma alla dogana del porto gli dicono no problem (una delle poche parole che sanno dire...tomorrow e no problem..) quindi ci sdoganano le moto e ci dicono di andare..ci danno anche un foglietto che dice che proveniamo dal kazakhstan e che stiamo andando in Russia (devi sempre dichiarare il paese di uscita). Io continuo a non essere d'accordo perchè sono 200 km con un foglio finto e verso un confine a mio avviso invalicabile ma mi adeguo..Huub è impaziente. Arriviamo al confine con la Russia attraverso una strada che costeggia il mar Caspio e che dall'altra parte ci mostra le montagne innevate del Caucaso..molto bello. La strada scivola veloce a parte la polizia, che ci ferma e ci lascia andare sempre tranne quando ci ferma e ci chiede i documenti dicendo che siamo in contravvenzione per un sorpasso proibito e per la velocità...impossibile, stavamo seguendo una macchina a bassa velocità. Il problema è che questa volta non ci ridanno i documenti se non gli diamo 250$ a testa subito. Huub cala le braghe..provo a protestare e dicono che mi portano con loro e che Huub può andare...pago anch'io!! Che nervoso!! Andiamo avanti a 50 km/h fino al confine, arriviamo alle 6 di pomeriggio. Alla frontiera ci dicono che non è possibile attraversare il confine russo e che se usciamo dall'Azerbaijan non ci possiamo rientrare..mi pareva di saperlo..Huub si deprime di brutto da un momento all'altro, non l'ho mai visto così...il capo del corpo alla dogana ci offre di cenare insieme nella loro mensa e intanto tenta di organizzare un incontro con le guardie russe nel territorio che divide le due frontiere...accettiamo e mentre io mi abbuffo con pollo arrosto, pasta, zuppa di pollo, verdure, kifir e chai per superare il momento pensando che ho bisogno di energie Huub non tocca quasi niente per la tensione..finito il pasto si va all'incontro, o meglio, ci va Huub in rappresentanza...scelgono sempre lui...sarà l'età!!! Io aspetto e da qui vi riporto il racconto di Huub:

Siamo andati fino a metà ponte sul fiume che divide i due territori e abbiamo aspettato le due guardie russe (provviste di copricapo russo) che piano piano ci hanno raggiunto a metà del fiume, fumando. La contrattazione è durata quasi 10 minuti, sembrava che stessero per cedere, ma la risposta è stata: Niet.

Ormai era tardi, abbiamo dormito in una camera davanti alla frontiera. La giornata è andata un po' così, come dice Irene, un sassolino ti può capitare.

Oggi ci siamo svegliati dopo un sonno intenso che ci ha tenuti incollati al materasso per 9 ore, forse ne avevamo bisogno, siamo partiti per tornare a Baku sperando di trovare la benedetta nave che ci porti in Kazakhstan..NB ultimo giorno di visto valido in Azerbaijan...azzzz

Non abbiamo più Manat (moneta azerabajija...si dice così??), ci fermiamo dopo una settantina di km a chiedere dove possiamo prelevare per fare benzina e ci indicano un semaforo accanto alla stazione della polizia. Passando da lì noto la macchina della polizia con i due poliziotti che il giorno prima ci hanno derubato di 500$, così mentre vado a prelevare Huub li va a salutare..non se lo aspettavano mai al mondo...stringono la mano a Huub impacciati davanti al comando di polizia e ai colleghi. Il bancomat non funziona quindi iniziamo a dirgli che non abbiamo più benzina, che non funziona il bancomat e che loro ci hanno preso 500$ che sono tanti, così ci passano di nascosto 100$ a testa che cacciamo nella bisaccia immediatamente. Non ci possiamo credere...Huub continua a dire

it's impossible, it's impossible, ahahah e io gli rispondo let's go, Huub, let's go! Forse avremmo potuto spingere di più, ma recuperare 200$ fino a 5 minuti prima sembrava davvero impossibile. Sembra un'ottima giornata...ci fermiamo a fare colazione e ripartiamo per Baku. Quando arriviamo la nave per Aqtau sta per partire...di nuovo...ci fidiamo o no? Cerchiamo di capire e mentre alla dogana dicono che la nave c'è, in biglietteria ci dicono che non ci sono più posti e che è una nave cargo senza passeggeri. Imploriamo il biglietto per il passaggio..niente da fare!! Torniamo in dogana, smuoviamo tutto quello che riusciamo a smuovere e promettiamo una mancia al capitano della nave, nonché all'uomo in dogana. Improvvisamente si può fare...a quel punto la biglietteria vuole la sua parte quindi torniamo in biglietteria, facciamo il biglietto e saliamo sulla barca. Finalmente, non ci possiamo credere!! Una giornata fruttuosa! Siamo sulla rotta per il Kazakhstan!! Sulla nave facciamo conoscenza con tutti, balliamo con alcuni camionisti a ritmo di musica kazaka che proviene da un cellulare, ceniamo con loro e ascoltiamo le lamentele della cameriera, unica donna a bordo, Fathma. Conosciamo anche uno degli ingegneri che lavorano al motore e che vivono a bordo per 800 euro al mese. Ci porta a vedere il motore della nave e ci spiega come funziona. Ci offre anche un caffè (con la cioccolata) e di fare la doccia nel suo bagno e ne approfittiamo.

 

 

Ci parla brevemente anche della guerra con l'Armenia, ci dice che la città in cui è nato è stata occupata dall'Armenia..in questa terra non si finisce mai di combattere, anche questa guerra continua. Birretta e a letto. Abbiamo il salotto della nave tutto per noi, gli altri hanno le cabine..cotti ma contenti. Il giorno seguente 4 camionisti dell'Azerbaijan ci offrono il pranzo sulla nave, ci lasciano i numeri di telefono e ci facciamo qualche foto assieme.

 

 

 Finalmente sbarchiamo, è pomeriggio tardi e mentre noi riusciamo a fare tutta la trafila burocratica, i nostri amici camionisti ricevono un secco domani...per loro non c'è problema, non protestano neanche..si mettono davanto ai loro camion e alle nostre moto che così sono anche custodite mentre noi passiamo da un ufficio all'altro. Inizia l'avventura kazaka, questo dovrebbe essere l'inizio di quella parte più selvaggia del viaggio di cui siamo in cerca. Ci dirigiamo ad Aqtau città, guidati da un ragazzino che di nome fa Norus e che si offre di aiutarci a trovare un posto per notte. Due birre prima di dormire senza cena...oooohh Huub senza birra non ce la può fare!!! ahahah. Domani si comincia davvero col Kazakhstan, abbiamo 2 settimane, fino al 31 maggio, poi dobbiamo essere fuori!

Last Updated on Saturday, 22 May 2010 16:58
 

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