Mamma li Turchi !! PDF Print E-mail
Written by Pietro   
Tuesday, 11 May 2010 06:45

Eccoci di nuovo!! Abbiamo attraversato tutta la Turchia, da domani saremo in Georgia! Da Silivri ci siamo diretti verso Istanbul, un traffico pazzasco, ci superavano da destra e da sinistra, camion, macchine, tutti che suonano il clacson come sei pazzi e mezz'ora di fila per riuscire ad arrivare al casello per attraversare il ponte sul Bosforo..però ragazzi una soddisfazione!! Lo stretto è davvero stretto e non si fa fatica a pensare a come in passato si potesse tranquillamente dominare gli scambi commerciali tra il mar Nero e il Mediterraneo. Sul ponte s'è un cartello che ci dà il benvenuto in Asia, per la prima volta, anche se io nel traffico non sono riuscito a vederlo..ma a Huub non è scappato, così almeno uno dei due può testimoniare la sua esistenza. Non siamo entrati in città, in effetti non l'ho ancora scritto ma questo viaggio ha sì lo scopo di visitare tutti i posti in cui passeremo, ma soprattutto ha lo scopo di incontrare persone ed entrare in contatto con le popolazioni locali. Evitiamo quindi l'autostrada e decidiamo di prendere una strada statale che attraversa tutta la Turchia, la D-100 in direzione di Samsun. Siccome si sta facendo tardi decidiamo di cercare un posto per la notte vicino al mare così a Hendek (GPS N40.80048 E030.74524) rendiamo una strada secondaria che attraversa le montagne che ci dividono dal mar Nero. Ci dicono che entro 5 km ci dovrebbe essere un campeggio..vero..guidiamo per una mezz'ora su di una strada bellissima, un sacco di curve e le moto dopo tanta autostrada sembrano danzare felici.

 

 

 

 

Ci fermiamo anche in un bar per prendere un chai e chiedere se conoscono un posto per dormire. Nessuno parla inglese, per fortuna che un signore parla tedesco e Huub parla un ottimo tedesco quindi facciamo amicizia, scattiamo qualche foto, otteniamo le indicazioni e non ci fanno neanche pagare il chai...ottimo affare!!!

 

Arriviamo fino a Kocaali, decidiamo di evitare l'albergo che ci hanno consigliato e troviamo alloggio a casa si Mustafa, un signore che parla un inglese semplice ed è appena stato operato di cataratta. Ci accoglie in casa sua e ci da un appartamento per la notte, senza acqua calda, ma per noi è già lusso (GPS N41.07159 E030.94670). Siamo cotti, così ceniamo e andiamo a letto. L'obiettivo per il giorno dopo è arrivare a Samsun, ma a 50 km dalla metà molliamo e ci fermiamo a Kavak (N45.30720 E14.53668 ) dopo km e km di collina nell'entroterra turco. Quando arriviamo a Kavak, un piccolo paesino, diventiamo subito la notizia del giorno se non del mese e un gruppo di ragazzi ci scorta in motorino all'unico hotel in paese. Lì ci aspetta Ali che insegna inglese alla scuola superiore e che ci accoglie mediando tra noi e l'oste. La serata diventa davvero interessante perchè bevendo chai insieme ad Ali e al suo amico ceceno Uffuk parliamo un po' di tutto fino ad arrivare alle vignette provocatorie che un olandese ha disegnato sui musulmani...i punti di vista sono veramente opposti...Ali dice che dovremmo avere più rispetto ma Huub non cede, anzi per un'ora si parla mettendo in mezzo cristianità e ruolo delle donne nella società senza trovare nessun vero compromesso. Qua come in Marocco gli uomini stanno in strada o al bar, chiacchierano e scherzano mentre le donne nei campi lavorano...alcune con il fazziletto in testa altre senza...La discussione finisce comunque amichevolmente e Ali ci lascia il suo numero di cellulare nel caso avessimo bisogno. Intanto arrivano altri paesani per vedere chi siamo, in particolare il meccanico del paese appassionato di moto che verrà anche il giorno dopo a salutarci e a proporci di passare nella sua officina per un check-up delle moto..nel caso aveste bisogno e passate per quelle zone abbiamo il biglietto da visita ; - )

Il giorno seguente ripartiamo e la strada ci porta sul mare, una lunghissima strada stata statale che costeggia il mar Nero fino a Hopa. Noi ci fermiamo ad Ackaabat (N41.01921 E039.58080) dove troviamo una connessione ad internet che ci permette di scambiare qualche chiacchiera su skype (con Sofia...tutte le volte che trovo una connessione lei mi becca sempre...ebbarava Marì, anche se l'audio era pessimo....e con Irene... : - ] : - ] : - ] ). Huub va a prendere delle birre, saltiamo la cena e ci addormentiamo con la testa che gira mentre calzini mutande e magliette cercano inutilmente di asciugarsi sulle nostre teste.

Il giorno seguente è speciale, riceviamo molto, ci muoviamo in direzione Hopa e ci fermiamo a Trabzon per prendere informazioni sul traghetto che dovrebbe portarci dall'Azerbaijan al Kazakhstan. Appena arriviamo in città chiediamo ad una camionetta della polizia appostata che molla la postazione e ci accompagna fino al porto davanti all'agenzia marittima..grazie!! Lì chiediamo ma non hanno informazioni anche se facciamo fatica a capirci. Lì davanti c'è però una piccola questura della polizia locale e Huub che è membro dell'IPA (internationl police organiztion) nonostante sia in pensione entra a chiedere aiuto per una traduzione. Non l'avesse detto...ci fanno accomodare su una panchina all'entrata e ci portano subito un chai e chiamano un traduttore fratello di uno dei poliziotti..con lui andiamo a telefonare al contatto in Azerbaijan che parla solo russo in modo da capire se esiste davvero la nave che va dall'Azerbaijan al Kazakhstan e se se possono caricare le moto. Telefoniamo da un chiosco in cui vendono sigarette patatine ecc ecc e in cui c'è un telefono che conta gli scatto così puoi pagare la telefonata. Lui parla turco e russo quindi per spiegargli qualìè l'informazione di cui abbiamo bisogno l'uomo del chiosco ci accoglie nel suo chiosco (che figo...) in cui ha un computer e una connessione wireless (per un chioschetto così non bastava un cavo??...femo finta de gnente come direbbe Irene o Matteo..). Lui scrive in turco e il computer traduce in italiano, io rispondo scrivendo in italiano e il compuer traduce in turco...ci capiamo!!

 

Il ragazzo fa la telefonata e il gioco è fatto...purtoppo però non esiste più il traghetto...ma in compenso ce n'è un altro che va in Turkmenistan su cui si possono caricare le moto...adesso ci serve il visto..ci proveremo!! L'uomo del chiosco è mega preso bene..mi fa vedere il suo sito e io gli mostro il mio..siamo anche diventati amici su facebook...alèèèè...ooo qua facebook va a manetta!!! Facciamo qualche foto e ci avviamo verso Hopa.

 

Riusciamo a fare il nostro pasto quotidiamo (oggi pesce) verso le 4 di pomeriggio e alle 6, quando stiamo per arrivare a Hopa e abbandonare il Mar Nero, butto l'occhio sul mare e chettivedo?? DELFINI che nuotano e saltano...non ci posso credere...ci fermiamo e rimaniamo mezz'ora a guardare un altro regalo di questa giornata. Unico inconveniente un camion che passando ci tira una bottiglia di vetro vicina, passa una macchina turca e fora una gomma...noi tutto a posto!!

 

Ormai è tardi e non vogliamo guidare col buio quindi superiamo Hopa e seguiamo la strada verso l'interno avvicinandoci al confine con la Georgia. Qui tra le colline/montagne che dividono Turchia e Georgia ci dobbiamo fermare ancora per fotografare un panorama incredibile.

 

 

Siamo stanchi e ci fermiamo nel primo paesino Borcka (N41.37167 E041.67139) che sembra il paese della perdizione. Dopo km e km in cui quasi tutte le donne sono coperte da un velo in testa qua il requisito fondamentale per gli alberghetti è avere prostiture al primo piano. Io vado a veder il primo e penso di essere finito in un bordello che gestische questo Hakan che poi si unisce a noi per una birra. Ma anche gli altri 2 che sono in paese sono uguali...ci beviamo un paio di birre e un chai in questo strano paesino e ci abbandoniamo ad un sonno meritato.

 

 Il giorno seguente utilizziamo tutta la mattina per capire come organizzarci, guardiamo sul web e chiamiamo ambasciate e agenzie per i visti ma non riusciamo ad ottenere informazioni riguardanti il visto per il turkemenistan, le navi che partono da Baku e sembra addirittura impossibilie attraversare il confine tra Azerbaijan e Russia...ci toccherà probabilmentre prendere una nave e quidni decidiamo di andare comunque a Baku e tentare la sorte: se siamo fortunati prendiamo il traghetto per il Kazakhstan altrimenti speriamo di ottenere un visto di transito per il Turkmenistan in modo di passare poi in Kazakhstan. Quando anche questo non fosse possibile o prendiamo una nave che da Baku ci porta in Russia oppure tentiamo di arrivare in Russia via terra. Ci muoviamo che è già tardi, e prendiamo la strada che dalla mappa sembra la migliore, circa 250 km dal confine con la Georgia. La mappa indica montagne di circa 1000 m, ma non è molto chiara infatti ci troviamo a 2600 m di altezza con la neve e un sacco di buche sulla strada, buche alte 20 cm e larghe un metro...meglio non finirci dentro!!

 

Guidiamo tutto il giorno, oltrepassiamo l'altopiano dove si trova Andahar e raggiungiamo il confine solo alle 7 di sera, stanchi dalla guida che ci obbligato ad una scansione continua della strada per ore e ore. Come arriviamo al confine dei cani ci danno il benvenuto (non proprio un benvenuto...ci corrono dietro come indiavolati...ma non hanno il visto georgiano perchè davanti al cancello si fermano..) ma la frontiera è chiusa e riapre il giorno dopo, così torniamo indietro e in 10 km troviamo un posto per passare la notte con le solite signorine che in questa zona sono ormai folklore che ci offrono compagnia. Noi cotti ceniamo e andiamo a letto.

Last Updated on Tuesday, 11 May 2010 07:15
 

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